The slow train climbing through tea country from Kandy to Ella is on most people's wish lists, and for good reason: it is a ride of six to seven hours through tea estates, mountain valleys and small hill stations. But if you read an older guide, it will describe a journey that is not currently possible end to end. This page says what is open and how to get the best of the ride now.
What is running (as of October 2026)
Cyclone Ditwah damaged the hill-country railway in late November 2025, and Sri Lanka Railways has been reopening it in stages. According to the news reports linked below, the picture on 2 October 2026 was:
- Nanu Oya to Badulla, through Ella: open. Services restarted on 20 June 2026 once the line between Nanu Oya and Ambewela had been repaired.
- Colombo Fort to Peradeniya and Gampola: open again from 2 October 2026, with eight daily services including intercity trains.
- Peradeniya to Kandy: suspended, because restoration of the Peradeniya bridge is not finished. Kandy and Matale services are expected to return once it is.
- Gampola to Nawalapitiya, and Hatton to Nanu Oya: still being repaired.
The Railways Department said about three-quarters of the up-country line was working. That means no through Colombo to Ella or Kandy to Ella train for now. Always confirm on the Sri Lanka Railways website and the timetable, because this is changing month by month.
The easy way to ride the best bit today
- Travel from Kandy to Nanu Oya by road. Allow about two and a half hours to Nuwara Eliya; Nanu Oya station is about 15 minutes outside the town. Many people break the journey with a night in Nuwara Eliya and the tea estates around it.
- Take the train from Nanu Oya to Ella. This stretch passes through the highest part of the main line and the most photographed scenery. On the old timetable it took about three hours; allow longer, because delays are normal on this section.
- Stay in Ella for a couple of nights. The famous Nine Arch Bridge is a short walk from the town, and the town has more to see and do.
Our ten days from Sigiriya to the south coast and fourteen-day grand tour both include this stretch; check the train status before you rely on a rail leg in either.
When the full line reopens
On a normal timetable, Kandy to Ella is about 160 km by rail and takes roughly six to seven hours. Kandy itself is a terminus, so trains that call there reverse out again before the climb. There is no date yet for the whole line to reopen, so do not build a trip around it. If it does reopen before you travel, the booking rules below still apply.
How to book a seat
- Reserved seats are sold on the official seat reservation site, up to 30 days ahead and at least two hours before departure, with up to five seats per booking.
- They go quickly on the hill-country trains, so book on the first day sales open for your date.
- Unreserved second and third-class tickets are sold at the station on the day. They cannot sell out, but nothing guarantees you a seat.
- Use only the official site. Reserved seats are issued in a passenger's name, so tickets bought from resellers can cause trouble at the station.
First-class carriages come in two kinds: air-conditioned cars with sealed windows, and an observation car at the back of some trains with large windows. For this route, most people prefer a second-class window that opens, but not every train has every class, so check what your train offers when you book.
Which side to sit on
You will read confident advice about the "best side" for views. Sources disagree, and which side faces the valley depends on the direction you are travelling and, on a normal timetable, whether your train reverses at Kandy. The line curves through valleys on both sides, so any window seat is a good seat. Ask station staff if you want a firm answer for your train.
Staying safe on the train
Stay inside the carriage. Riding on the steps and leaning out of open doors is prohibited, and news reports have described visitors being killed after falling from trains on this line. Heavy rain can also close the line at short notice, so leave slack in your plans and do not schedule a flight on the same day.
Planning around it
- Getting around Sri Lanka has road times for the legs on either side.
- When to go shows how the seasons affect the hill country.
- Is Sri Lanka safe? explains why landslides and flooding are worth checking before you travel.
