Twenty-one days around the island

A wide stretch of sand north of the town; good for an evening walk after a long flight.

The ruins of two vast monastery complexes, with the huge brick domes of Abhayagiri and Jetavanaramaya, guardstones, moonstones and bathing ponds such as the Twin Ponds.

The sacred fig tree grown from a cutting brought from India in the 3rd century BC, among the oldest documented trees in the world, surrounded by terraces and offerings.

A great white stupa built by King Dutugamunu in the 2nd century BC and ringed by a wall of carved elephants. Beautiful in the late afternoon light.

A former monastery rock facing Sigiriya. The last section is a short scramble over boulders; the reward is the classic view of Sigiriya.

The palace-fortress on the rock, with water gardens, frescoes, the Mirror Wall and the lion staircase. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Five painted caves under one rock overhang, with Buddha statues and ceiling murals spanning many centuries. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The 11th to 13th-century royal capital, best explored by bicycle or car, ending at the rock-cut Buddhas of Gal Vihara.

A Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva on a cliff above the sea, reached through Fort Frederick.

A fort first built by the Portuguese in 1623 and later held by the Dutch and British, still in military use; spotted deer graze inside the gates.

A flat 3.4 km loop around the lake in the centre of town, best early in the morning or before the evening service.

Sri Lanka's largest botanic garden, on a bend of the Mahaweli river, known for its avenues of royal palms, orchid house and giant Javan fig tree.

The shrine of the Buddha's tooth relic, with drumming during the daily services and several museums included in the ticket.

A hillside garden on the road to Ella, first planted in the 1860s for cinchona trials, now known for roses and cloud-forest views.

A working tea factory a few minutes from town, with a short tour of the processing floor and tea tasting with views over the estate.

A reservoir from the British period at the edge of town, with a lakeside path and boats for hire.

The stone railway viaduct at Demodara, in a valley of tea and forest. Check the timetable if you want to see a train cross.

An easy, well-trodden walk of about 45 minutes each way through a tea estate to a grassy summit with views across Ella Gap.

A half-day jeep safari (about 06:00 to 10:00, or 14:30 to 18:00) from the Palatupana gate, looking for leopards, elephants, sloth bears and birds across scrub, lagoons and rocky outcrops.

A cave temple complex on a steep rock, with reclining Buddhas and painted ceilings on several terraces and views over the countryside from the top.

The horseshoe bay itself, with a beginner-friendly beach break, a reef break for experienced surfers and calm water for swimming on small days.

A small, sheltered cove of golden sand between rocky headlands, one of the safer swimming spots near Tangalle in season.

The main bay, lined with cafes, with Parrot Rock reachable on foot at low tide in calm weather.

A curved bay with calm water in season, sheltered by a reef and lined with cafes.

The grid of streets inside the walls, with the Dutch Reformed Church (Groote Kerk), old warehouses and small museums.

Snorkel in the shallow, reef-protected lagoon of Hikkaduwa National Park, where green turtles often feed close to shore.

A walk along the 17th-century ramparts and bastions, from the clock tower past the lighthouse to Flag Rock.